What do you know, Lake and Michelle are gone, and suddenly we notice they're not the only bickering couple in the race. Raise your hands, nonsingle people: Did Ray and Yolanda's nonsensical argument on the bridge seem familiar to you? Teasing and joking escalated to full-on fight with the kind of speed I wish they could muster up for the actual race. This is the first time they've been together for more than four days? Damn, looks like they're well on their way to being an old married couple. For happier memories, let's skip to the scene of B.J. and Tyler alone on the bus, doing spot-on imitations of their fallen racers.

Finally, they left the beaten European path for more exotic locales and, cross your fingers, more interesting china to break. Without Lake to grumble something offensive about the Middle East, everyone seemed to enjoy being somewhere so out there. Happily, this leg of the race offered many opportunities for them to bunch up and wait for gates to open or buses to leave. Loved the little standoff between the frats and the hippies about who would brave the river-crossing first. Of course, Ray and Yolanda, yet again, managed to get lost on their way to Sur. They might want to rethink their strategy (or follow excellent map-readers Fran and Barry) next time they blindly speed off. Then again, Fran and Barry have become kinda nasty in their refusal to help others. FYI, Bar, airport ticket counters aren't the best places to keep secrets about flight info.

The detour was a tough decision this time. The camels seemed rather tame and cooperative, especially since there were around 20 guys there to help. But who knew Oman didn't have clearly written street signs?

And now the saddest part of the night: Watching B.J.'s spirit crushed in the desert sand as he dug through every pile, and I think through some of them twice, to find their crazy buried lamb dish. Anyone else think that "shuwa" might taste a bit gritty? How disheartening to get there first and then watch as, one by one, all the other teams have better luck.

Thank you so much to the people who wrote in last week with all your guesses about when the nonelimination episodes would take place. As the hippies TTOWed their way up to the pit stop that Monica and her eyeliner had dubbed "Jamborine" Castle, I was a bit less anguished, assuming they'd be safe. If anyone can make it with nothing more than the clothes on their backs, it's B.J. and Tyler. That does mean no more hats, unfortunately.